Paris Fashion Week felt bigger and busier than ever with a jam-packed schedule featuring a healthy mix of storied French houses including Chanel and Givenchy and younger, independent labels such as Cecile Bahnsen, Coperni and Anrealage.

Debuts breathed fresh energy into the week. Harris Reed presented his first collection for Nina Ricci, reimagining the brand’s aesthetics with gender-fluid sensibilities and dialing up the volume in its silhouettes, colours and the theatrics of the show. Ludovic de Saint Sernin also made his mark as Ann Demeulemeester’s newest creative director, riffing on the brand’s archives of tailored black suits, minimalist floor-length dresses in leather and tulle, and low-slung silk bias-cut skirts paired with shearling shoulder shrugs.

“The first look was literally me writing this new chapter. I think about everything she’s done and putting into today’s context to carry on that legacy. But also putting myself into it. I’m the new author of this amazing journey,” de Saint Sernin said after the show.

Daniel Roseberry delivered Schiaparelli’s first ever ready-to-wear collection, taking its cues from the house’s couture codes — introducing accessibility without losing its gilded touch. It was a celebratory time in Paris. Christian Louboutin marked 30 years of his infamous red soles at the Opera Comique with a mesmerizing precision dance performance choreographed by Sadeck Berrabah attended by fans of the label including model Coco Rocha and stylist Law Roach.